Bartolo Mascarello, Freisa, 2011 so061624 camino del albarino offer the far-northern outpost of Burgundy

the far-northern outpost of Burgundy run by Patrick and Isabelle

Tuesday night pasta people—this one’s for you

delivering concentration and complexity that justify serious cellaring

Les Revenants means "those who return"—a nod to the near-forgotten Champagne grapes Etienne Calsac brought back to life

and quince with electric acidity that keeps it dancing

Bartolo Mascarello, Freisa, 2011 so061624 camino del albarino offer the far-northern outpost of BurgundyFreisa is one of Piedmont's great oddball grapesa relative of Nebbiolo that's wild, a little rustic, sometimes faintly fizzy or off dry, and adored by insiders. In Bartolo Mascarello's hands it's dry, structured, and serious, made exactly like their Barolo: organic farming, native yeasts, big old casks. The 2011 has had over a decade in bottle, which is exactly what tames Freisa's youthful edge into something more harmonious and savory. A rare, back